Exploring Lisbon: How to spend a day in the Alfama
Are you looking for the ultimate city-break destination this year? Want somewhere with timeless charm, captivating culture, and a thriving culinary scene - look no further than Lisbon. The Portuguese capital seamlessly blends the past and present, with this being no more evident than at the ancient hill-top Alfama district. Journey through charming labyrinthine streets, past colourful tiled buildings, to some of the most iconic viewpoints on the continent.
Here are my top tips for visiting the Alfama district for you to use this summer:
Prebook for the Sao Jorge Castle
The iconic Sao Jorge Castle sits crowing the Alfama hill, and is visible from the whole city centre, lit beautifully at night and standing as a monolith to the 3000 year history of Lisbon during the day. It’s a vast complex detailing Lisbon’s history from pre-Roman, through the Moorish kingdoms, and to today, so is understandably popular with Tourists.
As you finish climbing to the top of the hill, you’re likely to see a vast queue of tourists all waiting to enter. Ensure you beat the crowds by booking tickets in advance, or tak the use of the handy QR codes situated to the left of the queuing crowd to order e-tickets then and there - allowing yourself to jump through a separate queue and into the castle without a long wait.
Once inside, walk to the viewpoint for sweeping views out along the Baixa, to the red-tiled Bairro Alto, and the sun glinting off of the River beyond. Don’t miss the walk around the precipitous Moorish walls, the castle museum showing artefacts from all eras of the Castle’s history, and the magnificent Peacocks who peacefully roam around the surrounding gardens.
2. Arrive early or stay late to the most popular miradouros.
Lisbon is world-renowned for its amazing viewpoints, or miradouros, with many of the most popular being in the lofty Alfama district. Gazing out over the winding streets and terracotta-tiled roofs from the Miradouro de Santa Luzia or the Miradouro Porto del Sol is a wonderful experience, but you can certainly see why many of these become over-crowded and relatively unpleasant at certain times of day. The worst culprit of overcrowding are throngs of cruise ship passengers (the passenger terminal is a stone’s throw away), or guided walking tours, who tend to get here between the hours of 10:00 and 15:00. Avoid peak times by getting here early or staying late, making the most of the bars that have sprung up around many miradouros for a sundowner before watching Lisbon’s lights begin to twinkle in the night.
3. Coincide your day in the Alfama with the vast Feira de Ladra flea-market
The Feira de Ladra flea-market is a staple of local life within the Alfama, translated to English as Market of the Thieves, this traditional flea-market tumbles down the hill from the Panteao Nacional to just above Santa Apolonia Train Station on the riverside. Time your trip to Alfama with this colourful display of Portuguese heritage, but expect the unexpected. I found that the stalls at the top of the hill, nearer the Panteao Nacional stocked more traditional handmade goods, amazing cork and filigree jewellery, while the further down the hill we got, the lower the quality of the stalls became. Come expecting to haggle with a handful of Euros (many stalls don’t accept cards and will only take cash, and ATMs are few and far between in this area of town).
4. There are more trams than the crowded Tram 28
Lisbon’s most iconic sight may not be a landmark, but it’s army of rattling yellow trams that hurtle through the Old City, clattering through impossibly narrow streets from the Bairro Alto to the Alfama itself. The most famous of these is Tram 28, running from Martim Moniz, in the shadow of the Alfama, to Campo Ourique in the west of the city. The nearly 50 minute long journey can be incredibly busy, and unless you get on at either terminus, can be standing room only which may be uncomfortable as you rattle up and down the Alfama hills. Instead of foregoing the experience entirely, instead try Tram 12. This tram follows a circular route through the Alfama from Martim Moniz and at only 20 minutes is much more comfortable, and much less crowded than its famous sister. You’ll even follow the same precipitous route as Tram 28 in parts from Porto do Sol, past the Cathedral, and down to the Baixa so you’ll certainly not feel like you’re missing out.
5. Pick the right church for you
The Alfama is the best preserved historic centre of Lisbon, and survived the 1755 earthquake, tsunami, and firestorm much better than the Baixa district below. This means it is full of historic sites, including plenty of churches to wonder at. If you are only in the Alfama for a day, you’ll find it difficult to explore them all, so here’s how to decide which is best for you. The Se (Cathedral) is a charming mishmash of architectural styles following extensive rebuilding throughout the centuries, and is a great (if somewhat busy) stop for anyone interested in architectural history. The Church of Sao Vicente de Fora is a huge baroque masterpiece, with an azulejos-clad cloister, ancient royal tombs, and fantastic views from the rooftop across the Alfama to the river beyond. The Panteao Nacional nearby also has amazing views from the roof and is the church-cum-mausoleum for many national celebrities. A little further afield the National Tile Museum occupies a 16th Century church and is filled to the rafters with historic, colourful tiles.
The Alfama offers travellers an unparalleled glimpse of ancient Lisbon, bringing together layers of history with amazing views, innovative street-art, and modern vitality - everything that makes this city so special! With these insider tips in your arsenal, you’re primed to make the most of your Alfama adventure - Happy Travels!
