A queer road trip around the Cotswold: Pt 1 - Oxford
With it's chocolate box villages, trickling streams, beautiful rose gardens, and world heritage sites, The Cotswolds are a slice of England barely disturbed by modern life. In fact, with around 23 million visitors a year spread between it's historic cities, countryside retreats, and spas, it's one of the UK's most popular destinations.
Most people come as day-trippers either striking out from London or detouring from their route between big-ticket destinations such as Oxford and Bath, but with so much to see and do, the real way to get to drips with the Cotswolds is on a road-trip. How else are you meant to slow down, picnic in incredible summer gardens, promenade around period-drama-perfect parklands, and soak in some of the UK's best spas?
But while it's string of historic towns and beautiful villages might look great on your grid, did you know there is also a fascinating queer history to discover while you travel around this pretty slice of the UK? Here's how to build the perfect queer road trip around the Cotswolds:
While technically not in the Cotswolds, Oxford is likely to be your gateway into this amazing corner of the country with great connections into London and within striking distance of Heathrow Airport. And while it might only sit on the outskirts of the Cotswold Hills, the ancient colleges that spill out of every alleyway are literally made of golden stone that comes from nearby, so in a way you are walking through the remnants of them.
But between touring the quirky museums, punting along the Thames (called the Isis as it flows through Oxford, so don't get confused) and marvelling at the incredible architecture, there's plenty more to do here, explore the fascinating history, and learn about some famous queer connections too.
Index
Oxford Colleges
Oxford Covered Market & more shopping
Museums & Libraries
Jericho & Port Meadow
Restaurants on Cowley Road
Hotels
Learn something at one of the Oxford Colleges
No trip to Oxford would be complete without a tour of the colleges, and there are so many of them crowded around the middle of the city that it can be overwhelming to know which one's to take on first.
Magdalen College (pronounced: mawdlin) will wow you with it's medieval cloister and enormous grounds, including immaculate gardens, water meadows on the River Cherwell, and even a deer park. The chapel in here is very atmospheric, if you're as into architectural history as me, and if not you'll enjoy re-enacting scenes from Saltburn which was filmed on the grounds (although there are plenty of scenes from Saltburn I would encourage you to not re-enact in public anywhere).
Magdalen College also has fascinating queer history, having been the alma mater of Oscar Wilde who famously; "found it harder and harder every day to live up to his blue china", a reference to his incredibly ornate room in the college which was full of delftware pottery and antique furniture. In later life he would find himself incarcerated for gross indecency due to his homosexuality and would eventually die and be buried in exile in Paris, never to return to his native Ireland, or the UK where he spent many of his years.
While near Magdalen College, check out the Oxford Botanic Gardens, the oldest in the UK and formerly part of Magdalen's grounds, and if you're looking to do a little punting (because why wouldn't you, you're in Oxford after all) then the boat hire and launch is located at Magdalen Bridge just to the east of the college. Entry to Oxford Botanic Gardens is from £7.20 per ticket, and while it might not be as sprawling as Kew or Glasgow Botanic Garden, it's still awesome to see.
Lastly, Balliol College might not be as beautiful or as leafy as the previous two colleges, but is well worth visiting for it's well-kept quad and quiet grounds. Balliol College also produced several queer pioneers including John Addington Symonds, an early pioneer of queer studies, and Matilda Wythenshaw, The 3rd Baroness of Wythenshaw - the first transgender member of the House of Lords.
If you're not looking to go into a college, but want a cute walk down the lanes to take in the architecture from the outside, start at the Bodleian Library and walk under the famous Bridge of Sighs, and then down Queen's Lane between New College, lofty Queen's College, and tiny St Bart's before emerging back on to the High Street near Magdalen. Another lovely walk skirts the back of the colleges from Christ Church Meadow past Grove Walk and Magpie Lane to get even more atmospheric snaps.
Each college sets it own pricing and open days, so check on websites in advance. Christ Church is open all the time, but tickets can be expensive starting from £17 for a self-guided tour, and from £16 for a guided-tour. Definitely book in advance as tickets can be scarce on busy days, and they are cheaper online too. On Oxford Open Days all colleges throw open their doors for free, so it's worth combining your trip if you can as it will save plenty of money.
Chow-down and shop undercover in Oxford's Historic Covered Market
Check out Colombia Coffee Roasters for excellent baked treats and a liquid pick-me-up, Rozana for brilliant takeaway Lebanese Food, or Pieminister for awesome pies. If you're treating yourself to a liquid lunch, then check out Teardrop Bar for local ales from Church Hanbrewery, or Gulp Fiction for an eclectic mix of Indie bookshop, bar, and coffee shop.
If you're looking for something to buy to commemorate your trip to Oxford, look past the Potter pastiche and college hoodies and look for something a little more local. Oxford has a very independent spirit and a huge range of local vendors so there's bound to be something that takes your fancy. Try handcrafted jewellery from The Oxford Bead Shop, or eclectic home interiors from Babylon Trading on the High Street. The Oxford Soap Company trades in handmade cosmetics and bath goods made from locally supplied ingredients, and if you're looking for anything - and I mean anything - printed, try the gigantic Blackwell's Bookshop. With over 3 miles of shelving, split over 3 buildings covering literature, posters and prints, and sheet music, there's got to be something you'll want to pick up.
Marvel at ancient treasures or prehistoric fossils at one of Oxford's Museums
Oxford isn't only a centre of learning for college students alone, and is home to some of the UK's best museums outside of London. They cover a huge variety of topics, and vary between free entry and paid, so if you only have an afternoon choose wisely based on your interests.
As a former classics student, I am a huge fan of the Ashmolean Museum - a real treasure trove of international and local art and antiquities. It is a broad church ranging from Ancient Egyptian archaeology, to pre-Raphaelite art, to far-easter ceramics, to a variety of local Anglo-Saxon hordes, meaning you're likely to find something to pique your interest even if you haven't travelled to Oxford to look at international antiquities. Think of it if you will as a more manageable version of London's British Museum, covering exactly the same vast swathe of human art history but without the crowds.
It also holds some of Britain's best Anglo-Saxon artifacts found locally on this edge of ancient Wessex, including the amazing Alfred Jewel, a gold filigree, quartz and enamel jewel, second only to the Sutton Hoo horde for intricacy and fame. The rooftop café and bar is also worth visiting for the views even if you don't browse the rest of the collection.
The Pitt Rivers museum brands itself as a anthropology museum, and has been undergoing a bit of a reckoning recently and finding it's meaning in a post-colonial age. Formerly branded as a cabinet of curiosities showing artifacts from many of the world's indigenous communities. Often using words like 'primitive' or 'tribal' or 'uncivilised' to describe complex and often important ceremonial aspects to indigenous culture, it's undergone a very modern update, with information boards updated to remove colonialist language and other boards added to explain the history of this language in a no-holes-bared approach to anthropology and learning the lessons of history. While it is still a packed museum, full of glass cabinets and interesting artifacts, it is also refreshing to see a museum engaging with communities around the world to prioritise repatriation of artifacts so readily.
The Museum of the History of Science backs onto the Bodleian Library, one of the oldest and most prestigious libraries in the English-speaking world, which is worthy of a tour for the ancient buildings and chained libraries (inspiration and eventual filming location for a popular magical film franchise) as well as for books by more queer former Oxford students and authors of works exploring same-sex relationships such as Mary Renault, A.E. Houseman, and Marguerite Radclyffe-Hall.
Entry to all of the museums above is free. The Bodleian Library Divinity School can be seen on a quick visit from £2.50 per person, while the rest of the Library's historic rooms is only accessible by guided tour from £10 a ticket, and they go quickly so book in advance.
Search for literary inspiration in Jericho and Port Meadow
It's no secret that Oxford is one of the most bookish cities in the UK, with both JRR Tolkien and Lewis Carroll occupying many a pub around Oxford city centre while they were both dons here, and exploring and writing about their fantasy universes while here (maybe fuelled by the pubs too). One famous haunt was The Eagle and Child, which is sadly now closed, but just north of here starts the well-heeled suburb of Jericho.
The quiet lanes around Jericho open out across the Thames to beautiful Port Meadow, a huge summer meadow that has been common land for at least the last 1000 years. Used for grazing and so never ploughed in all of that time, it has become a huge refuge for birds and wildflowers that would otherwise have lost their niche along the Thames in modern Britain - especially in the Summer when any floodwaters have subsided and mud is replaced with miles and miles of wildflowers.
Walk across Port Meadow to the ancient twin pubs of The Perch, and a mile to the north, The Trout Inn. Both are the absolute vision of what a good British pub should be, with gorgeous riverside gardens surrounded by willows, and ancient creaking beams and cosy interiors on the inside. It is said, while rowing on the stretch of river between the two pubs, that Lewis Carroll (a reverend) began dreaming up what would become Wonderland.
Between the two, if you are walking, cycling, or rowing, you'll pass the picturesque ruins of 12th-century Godstow Abbey which are open to the public. This was the final resting place of Fair Rosamund, a mistress of Henry II and famous beauty, who according to legend was kept in the middle of an elaborate labyrinth in the grounds of Woodstock Palace (now the site of Blenheim Palace), before his wife Queen Eleanor found her way through the maze to confront her and give her the choice between death by dagger or by poison.
Her tomb was found here years later by a passing bishop, placed in front of the church alter and surrounded by flowers and candles, clearly having been adopted by the locals as a saintly figure, before being forcibly moved by the bishop to a more private location to stop her veneration - classic patriarchy!
Grab a bite to eat or a beverage along Cowley Road
Popular yet understated Cowley Road, to the east of the city centre, feels a million miles away from the historic centre of Oxford while only being a stones throw across the River Cherwell. This is the heart of the city's largely independent culinary scene as well as home to most of the university town's student population, and the inevitable lively nightlife that follows it.
As always in the UK, in many of it's cities the best cuisine is often found in it's international restaurants, and Oxford is no exception - plus you're going to be heading into the countryside from here so English fayre is going to become a staple so enjoy the best of the international food scene here before you leave.
Kazbar is another fantastic option, and has served Spanish and North African inspired tapas/mezze dishes for years, becoming a true local favourite. The yellow building is hard to miss, and is chock-full of Moroccan lamps and indoor trees to add to the atmosphere. Feast on garlic prawns, Moroccan lamb, chargrilled artichoke, and braised butternut squash. Or sit in the conservatory sun-trap to sip on cocktails as a nice sundowner. You may even bump into a celebrity or two here, as Kazbar is owned by the sometimes outspoken Father of none other than Florence Pugh, and she often pops in if she is in the UK.
Lastly, the coolest newcomer to Cowley Road's food scene is Arbequina, a tapas restaurant with a selective menu of Spanish classics (the best) washed down with an extensive wine and sherry list - just make sure you reserve ahead as this spot is very popular and gets booked up quickly.
If you are looking for somewhere to drink afterwards, Cowley Road is full of inclusive and gay-friendly bars, but the best specific queer offering is the Jolly Farmers in the middle of town, which hosts a variety of events; from Drag brunches to Dungeons and Dragons get togethers.
Sleep in a slice of history in a city centre hotel
For staying in Oxford there are a good few options with something to fit any budget. For my money, the Malmaison Oxford is a pretty good option. Formerly the Oxford Prison, and accepting it's last inmate until as late as the mid-90s, the beauty of this hotel is that they play with its former usage. With design elements like thick, heavy doors, and barred windows, and buildings centred around the old exercise yard, it's pretty difficult to miss the hotel's former usage, but part of it's charm is that it allows you to play inmate while knowing you can check out whenever you want. Also as one of the only central hotels with a dedicated car park, this will be useful for heading onwards on your road-trip if you've picked up your car already.
If you want to splash out a bit, then The Randolph Hotel, opposite the Ashmolean Museum is a great bet for incredible Victorian Gothic grandeur, mixed with colourful nods to the Oxford colleges, and attentive British-style hospitality. Or for more of a budget-conscious traveller, Tower House, opposite Jesus College is within a typical 16th-century townhouse on an atmospheric lane (especially at night). With tight corridors, low beams, and bright rooms, it feels more like an upmarket B&B than a city-centre hotel - but you've come to explore anyway so who needs more?
Or for something a little different, drive out to The Artist Residence, Oxfordshire for your choice of stay in one of the 5 bedrooms in a thatched cottage, 3 suites in farm outbuildings such as converted barns and stables, or a cosy stay in a luxury shepherd hut, giving you your first taste of the idyllic Cotswold countryside.
Doubles at the Malmaison are from £140 per night, The Randolph from £250 per night, Tower House from £100 per night, and The Artist Residence Oxfordshire from £150 per night.
Continue the Cotswold Road Trip:
Pt 4: Central Cotswolds
Pt 5: Stratford-Upon-Avon and Northern Cotswolds
Pt 6: Cheltenham and Southern Cotswolds
Pt 7: Bath
